Фото: IMAGO/Lauri Heino / Global Look Press
下午3点,Maggie姐的一天才开始。吃过第一餐饭(她称之为早餐),从何文田的家里出门做头。她经常光顾的是湾仔道一家二楼发廊。爬上狭窄楼道,推开玻璃门,劲猛的冷气迎面扑来。刚做完头的Maggie姐伸出手,职业性地微笑。她的蓬松短发吹向一侧,微微翘起的发梢处被挑染成酒红色。“短发才有女强人的味道,”她说。
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Industrial production of kanten (the Japanese name for agar, which translates as “cold weather” or “frozen sky”) began in Japan in the mid-19th century by natural freeze drying, a technique that simultaneously dehydrates and purifies the agar. Seaweed is first washed and boiled to extract the agar, after which the solution is filtered and placed in boxes or trays at room temperature to congeal. The jelly is then cut into slabs called namaten, which can be further processed into noodle-like strips by pushing the slabs through a press. These noodles are finally spread out in layers onto reed mats and exposed to the sun and freezing temperatures for several weeks to yield purified agar. Although this traditional way of producing kanten is disappearing, even today’s industrial-scale manufacturing of agar relies on repeated cycles of boiling, freezing, and thawing.